Well, I’ve been working on an online inventory system for Chugs and me to use for our growing inventory of electronic parts. It’s called X-Parts and is about 1/3 the way completed. But, the inventory and wishlist systems are actually completed, so, it’s time to make it available to anyone who might want to use it.
Plus, the more people who use it, the more part options will be available, as the databases are populated with those yummy electronic parts. Perhaps, I will be shooting myself in the foot for making this public on this blog, but the only people that actually read it are me and Chugs anyway! However, I’m a fan of sharing.
So, come one come all and enjoy. If you do sign up, please read the guidelines once you are logged in. The system is built specifically around Chugs and my requirements. It might not fit your requirements.
Well, had a great weekend with my dive bros! I believe this is all that remains of the mighty STORM, and that’s just fine by me. It was a cold and windy weekend, and Wade and I were both sick and could only dive one day, but it was a great trip non-the-less. Thanks Wade, Ellis, and Rick for a great weekend. Look forward to doing it again, really soon.
Ok, maybe more like phase four, but who’s counting?
Well, she’s mobile. YIPPEE. But, she’s fat and has no power. Time to up the power to the motors, as 4 AA’s isn’t supplying enough juice. But hey, she’s cool. Time to find a magnetometer to produce accurate turning distances. It’s pretty willy-nilly right now, but a work-in-progress is just that: a work-in-progress.
But, here she is, in all of her fat-ass glory! Introducing Gerti-bot, the Generally Entertaining Roving Track Robot Understanding and Determining the Environment. Methinks the maiden doth protest too much!
Notes: 1. Lower her eyes 2. Figure out a more powerful pinging device, as there are some anomalies. Perhaps, something in the code is off or the device is cheap. It can’t detect fabric. 3. Tighten up code. 4. Test distance summing 5. Get her up to at least … 100 miles per hour
Ok, I’m not a chemist. In school, I was a bit of a chemistry nerd, but, I’ve forgotten everything. However, as stated in my previous post, I’m not excited about the trace results from milling PCBs. So, etchant is in order. But, who wants to use ferric chloride to etch PCBs? The stuff is nasty and has to be disposed in a controlled environment. So, what is the solution? GOOGLE TO THE RESCUE!
I ran across this Instructible: http://www.instructables.com/id/Stop-using-Ferric-Chloride-etchant!–A-better-etc/.
It describes how to make a reusable and renewable etchant, cupric chloride. A trip to Walmart by Julie for hydrogen peroxide and a trip to the hardware store for hydrochloric acid is really all it takes, if you have enough other stuff saved at home. (Chugs, you can show this to Pam to illustrate the importance of holding onto things). I had a couple of unused plastic paint trays for mixing and used an old glass for measuring.
I used a 2:1 ratio for making the etchant, H2O2 to HCl. I detected no fumes from this process, but chlorine gas while etching is quite possible, so this should be done in a well ventilated area, i.e. outside for me.
After mixing, throw in some copper clad and let it work. Hey, looky there. It works! WHOA, Sharpie works as a resist (as well as super glue remnants from gluing to the fixture). Neat, it’s green! In other words, this works. I had a bath of baking soda water to neutralize the boards when they came out (sweet, I love bubbled).
To make a long story short, I made two batches — the second was observed by Cat, who apparently, also loves bubbles. She screamed in joy, every time I made some for her to see The peroxide bottle was only $.88, so the rest of the peroxide went away so I could store the resulting etchant. It doesn’t allow light to enter, keeping the etchant pristine, and is easily sharpied with skull and crossbone symbols, and ominous words such as, ETCHANT and POISON!
From here on out, I’ll be drilling and milling the boards on the CNC. However, traces will be done with etchant. Sharpies will be used to secure up the vias, so no etchant eats copper away. This process will be documented later, once I’m ready. I hope to design some kind of oxygenation-agitator to go in the etch tank. Perhaps, this will connect to my Nitrox bottles at home to increase the oxygen concentration, keeping my etchant pristine for longer.
Don’t get me wrong. I LOVE this process. I’m just less that thrilled with the quality of traces, so from here on, will be testing etching instead. However, I told Chugs I would document this process, so I am. Perhaps later, I’ll try a 45 degree spade bit. I’ve read they are “more forgiving.” It doesn’t take much movement for the boards to become ineffective. Just .001″ can ruin a trace.
Here are my steps to milling PCBs. The images in the gallery are in order. It’s just too much time to link each file independently, so here’s the gallery:
1. The board is designed in Eagle. PCB-GCode is run to create the machining code. Also, credit where credit is due. Since this was my first major electronics project, I went in search of schematics to learn from. This board is based on this wonderful schematic: http://www.dcordes.freeuk.com/analyser.htm. Thank you. I’ve learned so much! However, I did add some stuff
2. The PCB fixture is cleaned and board removed from box.
3. Router is zeroed to fixture.
4. PCB taped to fixture for index hole drilling for flipping in the registry system. The fixture has drill holes at zero, every inch (-6 to 0 to +6). This ensure the board is level to routing when flipped. Clips from paper clips act as my pins.
5. The bit used for drilling index holes is slightly smaller than the paperclip diameter, so the holes are enlarged with the paper clip.
6. Board is super glued to the fixture to hold it as flat as possible. This particular PCB was unusually warpy.
7. Y-axis is moved +.2 inches away from the index holes. This gives plenty of room for the 1/8″ bit to cutout the board.
8. A bit index hole is drilled at the new x0,y0 point. This ensures you don’t loose steps and your bits are where they should be during changes and milling.
9. Vias are drilled. There are several bit size changes. Mach3 is set to stop for tool changes. Tedious, but quite enjoyable, I think.
10. Top engraving of traces is now done.
11. Acetone and a razor blade are used to remove the board. The board and fixture are cleaned with the same tools, ready to be flipped.
12. Other side of board is glued to the fixture.
13. Tired of watching etching now, so time to take some photos of the lakes in front of the house. Will this raise the property value? Man, I need about $4000 worth of gravel. It’s getting pretty muddy here
14. Bottom engraving continues.
15. The board’s dimensions are milled.
16. Again, acetone and a razor blade remove the PCB and the newly built board.
